Monday, April 11, 2011

Wrap-up April 10

Hello,

Sorry for the long delay in update.  The last 3 weeks have seen a whirlwind of activity: materials got purchased, construction got underway and actually finished (I'll send pictures soon), and an unexpected opportunity for my career in medical physics surfaced which I returned to the states to pursue.


I purchased materials for the project.  Almost everything went smoothly.  We went to the bank and I pulled out $3000 US in Haitian goudes around 110,000 goudes.  Now, imagine holding a $1000 US in quarters, 1's, 5's, and 10's and that should give you an idea of what I looked like carrying a wad that could simultaneously pass as a blunt weapon.  Oh, and did I mention these bills look like they were printed around the time of Gutenberg's bible?  They are covered in dirt, torn, and shaggy making the 250's look like 50's from time to time.

The only problems I had with purchasing the materials were with the doors and windows.  When I got an estimate on the price for the windows, the man showed me 1 window.  I asked him to measure it and then asked if he had a total of 4 the same size.  He said he had them in the back.  So, I asked him to show me another.  He immediately returned with a second window and we measured it and it was identical to the first.  I took him at face value that he had 2 more.  Turns out he only had 2!  Fortunately, we were able to find 2 other windows nearby for the same price BUT they had slightly different dimensions than the first.

As for the doors, the man had agreed to sell them at $200 Haitian dollars each.  Note everything is in Haitian dollars and 1 US dollar = 8 Haitian dollars.  He also said he had siding for the doors for $20 each.  However, when I arrived on the day to purchase he changed the price to $800 each.  I was in a huge bind because I had already rented the truck for all of the other materials and it would be expensive to rent it again just for 2 doors.  In the end, after a lot of arguing we settled on $650 for each door and then I found out he did not even have siding!  Again, siding was found but I know I overpaid for it.

However, all the other materials went well and I even saved money as my original estimate had been on thicker pieces of tin and metal than the construction crew asked for because I wanted to build a buffer in my budget. 

The next day the construction team I hired arrived and there was an argument about the contract and the amount to be paid for the labor.  There was a lot more negotiating and they eventually agreed to do the job at $3500 Haitian dollars - about 3 times what I had originally worked out.  This was irritating but I have been told this is unfortunately how business works.

Okay, now for the fun part.

The first window was cut about 3 feet from where I had drawn it on the plans.  I take full blame for this because I was not present when he started cutting (they were working on the roof so I went to lunch thinking I'd be back before they came off the roof).  Oops.  But of all the places they could have cut wrong they went in the right wrong direction so it just puts a little more space between the windows.
Miss number 1

Remember, I purchased windows that were slightly different sizes.  I made sure I told everyone in the crew that they were different.  I even stacked them next to each other so everyone could see they were different.  Flash forward and they have cut out 2 windows.  The guy was about to cut out the third.  Call it a hunch or gut feeling but I stopped everything and made everyone re-measure everything!  At first, they were annoyed... turns out I was right one of the other workers had moved one of the windows and so the guy with the torch was about to cut the wrong size hole.
Save number 1

A short time later, I wanted the doors to swing out.  I realize it is custom for doors to houses to swing in but since the containers are only 8 feet wide having a door 2 1/2 feet wide sweeping an arc into the living space is quite a problem.  Before they installed the hinges we checked again.
Save number 2

Now for a little insight into Haitian construction

The whole time during construction, every day they worked they tried to hassle more money out of me.  After my initial defeat on opening day I dug my heels in the ground and fought them everyday.  And it was battle after battle.  For example, I purchased doors without holes cut for the locks.  They told me it would be a little extra to install those.  I told them a swinging wall was not a door. 

In a separate encounter worth noting, Madame Cameau told me not to purchase nails, screws, bolts because no matter which ones I bought she said the construction crew would tell me there was a problem.  Instead, we agreed on a price and the man went and bought screws.  When he returned he told me they were a little more and asked for $119 US dollars.  I cracked a smile and said no.  We argued for a while I asked for a receipt which he had 'left at home'.  And then we did a quick calculation on a piece of paper and then I paid him the $210 Haitian (about $26 US) we had originally agreed on.

Still, yet another wonderful illustration.  They asked me for $500 H for transport of their machines (welding equipment and torch).  I denied them.  This brought on a long drawn out discussion that bordered yelling but not quite.  I held firm but I was really upset after the discussion.  Madame Cameau, my hero, walked outside and talked to a tap-tap driver.  She pretended like the equipment was hers and asked how much he would like for the transport.  The response $30 H.  So, if we account for round-trip transport the cost to them was $60... and they wanted $500! 

Time and time again things came up.  All day long!  Some of the tries were comical, "We are hungry can you help us?" (this said while one of the other guys has his back turned to hide the piece of bread he is munching on) or "We haven't seen our wives in a couple days can you give us a little extra so we don't feel so guilty for being away".  But still, I can't help but think that for each time that I caught them trying to scam me, there's probably a scam that slipped under the radar.

At one point, I was really feeling drained from the barrage of tricks and games and I asked Madame Cameau if this was typical or because I am white.  By the way, she also had a separate project underway with her own construction crew.  As she was telling me, "Don't worry.  They are all the same.  This is just how it goes in Haiti."  Her chief construction worker came in asking her for money for some minor problem.  All we could do was laugh until our sides hurt!

The good news, however, is the men I hired did sensational work.  I met them at 5 in the morning and they would work until sunset.  They did a fantastic job and everyone I mean everyone has come to admire the project.  I wish I could take the lion's share of the credit for the success but the truth is without Madame Cameau I would have been completely lost.  She was with me at every turn, helping translate for me, showing me where different stores were, helping me negotiate prices, arguing at length for people to give me a fair price.  She helped me tremendously and I owe her an enormous debt of gratitude!  She is an incredible woman and I am very thankful that she gave me such generous support!

The other great news is even though they will not tell me how much the other container cost, I have been told that I spent significantly less to accomplish a lot more.


So, to summarize:

Things that I would do differently:

1) When purchasing materials I would make sure to see every material (i.e. all 4 windows) and require a signed invoice so the price cannot change on purchase day.

2) I realized that working with the construction crew they had zero incentive to help me with costs.  In the future, I would restructure the contract such that there was a cushion of money for extra materials and/or little problems that come up.  I would explain that should they not dip into this reserve it could be theirs.  (this was a tactic that I switched to 2 days before the project finished and helped dramatically reduce the requests... it was amazing to see how resourceful they suddenly became)!

3) Never assume that just because they are working on the roof they won't send one guy down to start cutting windows!

4) I would try to organize the purchase of materials and construction with other projects that the organization would like to complete.  I realize that renting the torch you could cut all the containers in one day rather than just mine and significantly cut costs - but this is more a UNIF suggestion.

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After exploring my budget, I spent a total of $3517 US dollars.  The goal was to spend $3500 but they would not let me remove 10 dollars from the account (3 month waiting period until you can close an account with Fonkoze).  The other 7 dollars because I lost about $55 Haitian dollars somewhere along the way.  I have gone over all my receipts and have no idea where the $55 slipped off to (I included this amount in one of the transportation entries as these tended to be miscellaneous costs as tap-taps vary in price and sometimes you have to pay someone a few goudes to tie things to the roof or whatnot) but I still have no idea where it went.

Attached is a copy of the budget and how I spent the money.  I estimate that if I were to do it again I could probably do it for around 3000 - 3200 by avoiding some unnecessary costs (like labor for loading and unloading that was not needed) or negotiating a better price on materials/labor.

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Nonetheless, everyone at UNIF is very happy with the results of the project and I am happy with it as well.  The container has been converted according to the requests Father Joseph made and so my project is successfully complete!

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Getting started

My son, Adam, has gone to Haiti on a volunteer project to help convert storage containers into dormitories.  I am posting his letters home to share his experiences with others.
Sun Feb 20, 2011

I have been in Haiti for about 72 hours now and I certainly feel like I am in a different world!  Some things are as I expected - many people are poor and living conditions are extremely rough, people are very friendly, and there are tons of people who are happy to help you out.  The country is incredibly beautiful!  Steep mountains with gorgeous views.  The people I have met have been very outgoing and try to offer me any courtesy they have available.  Surprisingly, a number of people know English fluently or at least manageably well.  I am not sure where they learn it as French is more important and is what is officially taught in schools.

As I came in, I passed through Port-Au-Prince and that was insane.  It seemed to be a never ending slum.  People everywhere on very narrow streets and just chaos all around.  Once I got out of Port-Au-Prince the country changed dramatically.  The air felt fresher and life seemed to move a lot slower.  People are very relaxed, often hanging out for long spells and generally the pace of things is slow.  There are signs of the damage from the earthquake everywhere but there are also tons of new structures under construction.  So, things appear to be improving, albeit very slowly.

My first impression is the country seems to be a strange mix of opposite tendencies.  Haitians are extremely resourceful in some ways designing clever water irrigation systems or re-using bottles and paper.  Actually it is common for people to save used toilet paper for paper to burn for starting fires!  But in other ways, Haitians are extremely wasteful.  There is trash everywhere!  Plastic and styrofoam litter the mountains, streams, streets.  Most disturbing though is most of the foreigners I have met seem to be simply adding to this trash, chucking their plastic coke bottles off the side of the road.  There are lots of mismanaged properties - near me there is a building the UN started got 1/2 built and then abandoned for reasons unknown.  Across from the restaurant I frequent there is a torn down hotel.  In my opinion there are things that could be salvaged but I have been told that no one can touch the property because it belongs to someone else.

Still, the most surprising thing is life just does not seem the way it is portrayed in the news.  Most people seem genuinely happy.  I am certain they would enjoy having more money to perhaps improve their living conditions but they do not seem distressed or in misery from their current conditions.  Haiti seems to be in some sort of weird limbo state.  Everyone carries a cell phone and many people have access to watching a DVD on someone's laptop.  But yet it is common to see kids playing with a can because they lack a ball to play with.  Its an incredible contrast and doesn't seem like it could really function.

The best news though, is I have met several great families that have been very open and seem willing to let me practice Kreyol.  Best of all, they seem to be open to answer any of my questions so I have tried to ask them more detailed questions about their living environment.  I am learning a lot from them and I hope in time I will be able to begin to see things more from their perspective.  In the little I have discussed with them I feel the biggest limitation for them to improve their situation is the restrictions placed on them by others.  What I mean is one farmer was telling me he would like to have a bigger farm but he is not allowed to expand even though I could see that the land adjacent to his plot is unused.  Also, he has trouble with irrigation because he doesn't have the right to collect water from the river down below, for a reason I am not clear on but I presume property rights.

I hope everyone is doing well and I'll try to send out another update soon.

Adam
Mar 11, 2011
This past Friday I traveled to Port-Au-Prince.  While I saw the city
upon my initial arrival I was still overwhelmed and did not process
much of what I was seeing.  This visit served much better as I got to
walk around in several parts of the city and enter different stores.
In my opinion, the city is nicer than I expected.  There seems to be
electricity and access to plumbing.  It is definitely overcrowded and
the camps are scattered about in different parks but I was impressed
to see they had port-a-potties near each camp and appeared to be
cleaning them regularly too.  But I didn't get to speak to anyone
living there and I'm sure I would not be thrilled about living in a
tent indefinitely.
So now that I have gotten my bearings I can explain more about my
project.  I initially wanted to pursue a volunteer program in
microfinance and so I spoke with Father Joseph Phillipe, the founder
of Fonkoze (Haiti's largest microfinance organization).  To make a
very long story short, he proposed that I focus on a project to help
the university of Fondwa rebuild instead.  I agreed as I am also
interested in supporting education for development and because I
figured it would give me the opportunity to work with Father Joseph
directly and explore later opportunities to get involved with Fonkoze.
 Effectively, I am working independently on the project but with the
support of UNIF staff and several other volunteers who have projects
of their own.
And so my specific project is to help UNIF transform a shipping
container into a usable dormitory with the expectation of being here
for around 3 months.  I should point out that there was a group that
came before I arrived that attempted to transform a different
container into a library, but unfortunately they did not have much
success.  The windows they cut leak when it rains so they had to build
awnings over the windows which has proven to be rather costly.
Interestingly, Bernie, the main welder, wants to repeat this process
on my project.  I have adamantly refused and am pushing forward to
purchase pre-fabricated windows and doors as they are cheaper and I
believe presumably function better.  It was only after I learned that
he gets paid based on a percentage of the materials purchased
(pre-fabricated do not count) that I realized why he is so keen to
create such an inefficient design.
Eventually, the long term goal for UNIF is to transform 8 containers
into different buildings for the university; another for a dorm, one
for a computer lab, one for administrative offices, another for
classrooms etc.  I am trying to keep a strong record of where I will
purchase the materials, how much I pay, who does the labor, how much I
pay for the labor, any equipment that gets rented as well as a list of
useful contacts for subsequent groups that come to finish the other
containers.  Unfortunately, I have not been able to find this
information from the group that came to do the library; even the
president of UNIF does not know how much money was spent as this
information is not being released by APF.  I have been really
frustrated by this lack of transparency and am making it a high
priority with my project.
And thus I have entered the politics of Haitian construction.  Each
party involved tries to maximize the work they are required to do to
take a bigger cut.  My main challenge is to separate what is needed
and negotiate a fair price from what 'is needed and what is a white
man's price'.  I have befriended the engineer and the president of
UNIF as they seem to be neutral (neither can receive any money as they
are not directly involved and have been kind enough to assist me).
Also, both could easily leave the country and work in Europe or US for
much bigger salaries so I strongly doubt they are here to squeeze a
few Gouds from construction.
I have gone to Jakmel, and PAP to look at prices for different
materials.  Madame Cameau, the engineer took me to a neat second hand
district in PAP where I hope to purchase the pre-fab'd windows and
doors.  Granted they are salvaged pieces which raised an objection
until I pointed out that we are installing them into a used shipping
container!!  Also, I have asked several laborers to come to give an
estimate on the work.  It has been really fun to watch Madame Cameau
negotiate on my behalf in rapid Kreyol.  I still cannot understand
Kreyol at conversational speed but I definitely understood negotiating
price.  In Haiti everyone tries to invoke the most impressive image to
support their cause "Like I have 6 children to feed and send to
school" which gets a response like "This is a university project to
help the people so that your kids can go to college" and on and on!
Also, while in PAP we stopped at Mdm Cameau's ruined house and I
walked all around it.  It made me think of the leaning tower of Pisa
as the whole house is on a 10 degree slant and I entered the 2nd floor
from the ground and then climbed up and around to the 3rd floor.  The
destruction there is so surreal because it is not centered in any
location.  You will see one house totally ruined, next door not a
scratch, and then on the other side another devastated home.
By the way the record discussed in the subject is that is the number
of people I have seen riding a motorcycle at one time!  And it was
going fast!  I have heard a rumor that there have been as many as 8
but I refuse to believe it until I see it.
Mar 16
The objective is to transform the container into a suitable living space (dorm) for 12 students.
I have prioritized my objectives and have put the project into phases.  Phase 1 is to cut the holes for the doors and windows and install them into place.  Phase 2 is to build a roof for shade.  Phase 3 paint the exterior white to reduce the absorption of the sun.  Phase 4 is to put up walls and a ceiling inside.  At this point I think I will be out of money but I think it will be livable.
Mar 17
They [the containers] are 40 feet x 8 feet x 8 feet.  They have been raised onto blocks about a foot off the ground to avoid water damage.  
I do not think they have a good strategy to help the students find employment after they graduate.  The original plan was for equal number of students to come from all over the country study agriculture, veterinary, or business management.  Then they could return to their hometowns and start businesses and whatnot.  Due to lack of funding they have switched and virtually all the students are from Fondwa pop. ~8000.  So, if they graduate they will have 30 experts all in the same town. 
Mar 21
Hello everyone,
The 'O O' is a ubiquitous expression here in Haiti.  Its used whenever someone is surprised (either good or bad) sort of like our 'woah'.  
I'm throwing out the O O as I am very pleased to let everyone know I have hired my construction crew.  I brought in 4 construction managers to take bids on the work.  All were incredibly high (the lowest was around $400 US).  Fortunately, Madame Coicou gave me some valuable guidance and told me $125 US would be a fair wage.  So I wrote a contract for the work and dug my feet in the ground.  After some fun Haitian negotiating I am happy to report that yesterday, the construction guy I happen to like the most accepted my bid for $125.
We have decided to wait until Wed. to purchase the materials (the election was on Sunday so we figure we will let things cool down a day or two) and then start that afternoon or Thursday.  I have been told the work can be completed relatively quickly.  So, I am excited that things should be progressing and I may complete my project ahead of schedule.
Also, for the entire time I have been here there are 2 large tables with a mountain high of books, which I have been told is the 'library'.  The stack is completely unusable because unless you happen to want the book on the top you are guaranteed a wonderful workout.
Anyways, I kept looking at this pile of books and wondering why no one was doing anything about it.
Last Thursday, after a month of stupidly staring and noticing that I am the only person who has checked out a book I decided to re-build the library.  I started building shelves and organizing the titles when I suddenly stopped.  I realized the last thing I wanted to do was perpetuate the stereotype that Haitians sit around and wait for the White to show up with a handout or do work for them.  So, I approached Ruth, one of the students at the University, and told her "This is your library.  I want you to take charge and I want to congratulate you when we have a meaningful library."  I am very pleased to report that she has responded admirably - directing the other students and me =) - and today we are about 50% done with the job.
The last project I have recently adopted is I have taken over a course to teach the students English.  It is a lot of fun and as I have spent the last year studying Kreyol I am trying to now reverse the process so to speak.  Also, Ed, one of the other volunteers here, has done a great job and set up Skype so we are hoping that sometime soon students can begin receiving lectures from remote professors. 
Finally, I wish to share an fascinating story about Madame Coicou (note she shared the story with me in Kreyol so its possible I might have some of the finer details incorrect but we verified all of the major points in English):
During the 1990's Madame Coicou created a forensic analysis team in Port-Au-Prince.  At some point in the mid 90's bodies were discovered in a rural field and she led her team to investigate.  She followed all the regulations of Haitian law including having a member of the Haitian police present to observe.  Midway through the investigation a higher ranking police official arrived on the scene and completely shut down the investigation.  He confiscated the documents and forced them to return the bodies.  Sadly the investigation was halted.  
Several years later, a French organization came and started a different investigation that included searching the home of the suspicious police official.  Through an intermediary the police official requested to use Madame Coicou's incinerator.  At some point, she discovered that the evidence they were trying to destroy was related to her original investigation.  Apparently, the police official had decided to hide the evidence somewhere in his mansion.  Unfortunately, as she renewed her original investigation, unidentified men attempted to kidnap her daughter from her school.  Consequently, Madame Coicou left Haiti and moved to Canada where she continued as an international forensic specialist (just not in Haiti) until about 6 months ago when she returned to become the president of the University of Fondwa.
The most devastating part of the story:  O O the suspicious police official went on to become the chief of all the police in Haiti!  
Best wishes!
Adam